Tweed Suit for Cheltenham Festival 2022
Garment In Detail – Bamboo Jacket
The Client From The Cotswolds Wanted To Wink To His Scottish Heritage.
The History of the Waistcoat
Since 1666, when King Charles II decreed that waistcoats were part of the Englishman’s correct dress, they have been a staple part of the wardrobe ever since.
Origins of Style – A Brief History of the Pinstripe Suit
The pinstripe suit came into being around the end of the nineteenth century and has been in fashion pretty much ever since. Originally made famous by stylish Brits, the suit would become increasingly popular throughout the globe as men (and later, women too) wanted to project an image of sophistication and class through their choice of suit.
Where did the pinstripe come from?
As with most sartorial origin stories, there is a degree of controversy over how the pinstripe suit came into existence. In fact, the only thing that everyone is able to agree on is that the pinstripe was definitely an English invention. Beyond that, two schools of thought emerge, one that suggests the iconic suit began life in the world of banking, the other that prefers the notion that it actually became popular after its use in popular sporting activities of the day.
The banking theory has it that the pinstripe was a kind of uniform for English Victorian bankers and that the difference in the thickness and distances between stripes was a way of indentifying employees from different banking institutions. The sporting hypothesis sees the pinstripes as evolving out of the striped uniforms worn by men who liked messing about on water. Boating was an extremely popular pursuit in the 19th century, as was banking, so neither theory is unreasonable.
The rise of the pinstripe
The popularity of pinstripe suits grew rapidly once it had spread across the Atlantic, taking American culture by storm in ’20s, ’30s and ’40s. The suit became the unofficial uniform of the Prohibition era, beloved of the ultra-stylish and anoyone who wanted to stand out from the crowd and make a bold statement. Naturally then it was popular not only with film stars and jazz musicians, but also with gangsters, the most famous of which of course was Al Capone.
After Prohibition the suit became even more mainstream when huge stars such as Clark Gable and Cary Grant continued to popularise it. It is said that the pinstripe suit that Clark Gable’ wore in Gone with the Wind influenced the emergence of the flamboyant, flared-trousers, padded-shouldered zoot suit.
The modern pinstripe
These days the pinstripe is everywhere. It is still a part of mainstream sartorial culture and is one of a myriad of style options available to the modern man, or woman. In fact, the pinstripe has definitely crossed the gender divide and has become a basic component of women’s clothing, particularly in business, where it remains especially popular with both genders.
Iconic suits from the film industry
Impeccable clothing on male leads on screen is almost as crucial as the characters themselves. Getting it right creates a timeless presence, adding to the authenticity of our heroes. Let The Bespoke Tailor take you on a journey of some of our favourite iconic suits from the film industry.
When thinking about tailoring in the movies, James Bond immediately springs to mind. A spy defined by his impeccable taste in almost everything. His effortless style and sophistication leaps from the screen and is emulated by many. Sean Connery waa popular James Bond and in a classic scene from Dr No where he lights a cigarette at the baccarat table, he’s wearing probably one of the nicest dinner suits ever made. A perfect cinematic moment.
The Glen plaid check grey suit that Cary Grant wore in the 1959 film North by North west was probably his most famous garment. The weave on the material had a hint of blue to it and Cary’s suit seems to almost change colour during the film. Hitchcock paid close attention to the wardrobe as it was said he didn’t want the film to date.
When Cary’s character, Roger is in the field being chased by the crop-sprayer the suit looks to be a very light grey. However, when Roger is standing by the railway carriage in disguise, it almost looks navy. The look may be a little baggier than would be worn today but it’s still slick with its crisp, white shirt and perfectly co-ordinated tie. Classic perfection that still has the power to wow audiences old and new.
The eighties did have some stylish moments as we can clearly see in American Gigolo, thanks to Richard Gere and his outfits supplied by Georgio Armani. One of cinema’s most memorable wardrobe scenes is in this film when Richard Gere flicks through his huge range of shirts and blazers. This is undoubtedly where the phrase ‘Armani suits’ became ubiquitous with having style and who better to carry it off than the very sartorial Richard Gere?
Did you know that Robert De Niro wore 45 suits in Scorcese’s Las Vegas gangster drama Casino? And all of them were specially made? Rumour has it that the costume budget for this movie alone was around $1 million. I would have liked to been the consultant tailor on that one!
Jack Nicholson was mesmerising in the film Chinatown which was set in 1937 Los Angeles. As well as being one of the best dramas of all time, it is also one of the most stylish, as it had a series of fantastic bespoke three-piece suits that were perfectly accessorized with pocket square and tie ensembles. Talent like Nicholson’s had to be complimented with impeccable attention to detail and the very best of fabrics. An amazing cinematic experience from one of the very best.
So there you have it, a few of The Bespoke Tailor’s favourite iconic suits from the film industry and the influences are still being felt today.
What to wear to Cowes week
Cowes Week is one of the longest-running and prestigious regattas in the world. It is held in Cowes on the Isle of Wight at the beginning of August and hosts 40 daily races, with up to 1,000 boats and 8,000 competitors. Ranging from Olympic and world class professionals to weekend sailors, it is the largest sailing regatta of its kind in the world.
The town becomes a hive of activity and entertainment lasts into the early hours of each morning. Around 100,000 visitors are attracted to Cowes by the festival atmosphere of the event so if you’re attending this year, make sure you feel stylish and comfortable at this fantastic occasion.
There is no formal dress code for being a spectator at Cowes Week but opting for lightweight fabrics that can be layered can offer versatility that will prove vital when it comes to the British weather.
If you are heading to Cowes Yacht Haven or the parade, a more relaxed feel is the order of the day. Both these venues offer food and drink and live music so classic chino trousers and a polo shirt can help you feel comfortable in your surroundings. The parade is waterfront so a jacket maybe needed for late evening to keep the chill at bay. A classic two button sports jacket will keep your look casual but smart. Boat shoes will provide comfortable footwear when venturing around the shops for a bit of retail therapy.
Shepards Wharf and Northwood House offer acoustic and jazz acts, a great selection of beers and cocktails and a more relaxed ‘chill out’ style. A tailored white cotton shirt paired with lightweight blue chino trousers bring a look that will ease you from daytime browsing to night time socialising. A navy blazer will give you that subtle nautical look. Brown/tan Deck shoes or loafers are comfortable yet stylish shoes that will complement your look and provide suitable footwear for checking out the town or going aboard the spectator boats. Make sure to accessorise your outfit with sunglasses and a stylish watch.
On the final Friday evening be sure to catch the firework display, a fantastic festival atmosphere that is viewed as an integral part of the event – and don’t forget your jacket or blazer….and umbrella. You just can’t trust the British weather! 
Midnight Blue Evening Suit
Is a Midnight Blue Dinner Suit correct?
Over the past few years, we have noticed a sharp increase in the midnight blue dinner suit.
From the red carpet at the Oscars to the ordinary folk amongst us, the midnight blue dinner suit is being seen more and more. The contrasting blue on the black satin looks incredibly stylish.
At The Bespoke Tailor, we are fully aware of the rules of black tie and ensure that our garments comply with tradition and fashion alike.
Eddy Redmayne has been seen wearing a midnight blue dinner suit at the Oscars. We were disappointed not to see satin piping on the trousers but the jacket looked sharp.
The idea with “black tie” is that the male should stick to a very strict set of rules. The monotone outfits would blend in and allow the female companion to be the centre of attention.
Over the past few years though, the male has become a little more fashion conscious.
When we get commissioned for a midnight blue dinner suit, we recommend a mohair fabric. This is a slightly more course fabric that work perfectly for evening wear. Mohair is made from goat, as opposed to sheep so the fibre is better suited for the commission. The crease resistance is incredible too which means that the garment looks as sharp at the end of the night as it did at the beginning.
Are you looking for a midnight blue dinner suit? The Bespoke Tailor will be able to help!
We can create a single breasted or double breasted evening suit and take you through each and every detail before cutting the perfect suit for you.
The midnight blue evening suit is perfect for weddings, awards ceremonies, black tie events and the jacket can even be worn separately.
We take appointments at our London showroom and see clients in the comfort of their own home or places of work at a time that is ideal for them.
With around 7000 fabrics being available, we are confident that we have more clothes than any other London tailor. This means that we are able help with any businesses attire, wedding suits, evening wear or even bespoke shooting suits.
We will keep you informed throughout the process and will see you with various fittings until the garments are perfect.
We require a minimum of 8 weeks to complete a commission although this does differ depending on the level of work going through the work shop.
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Garment In Detail – Brown Puppytooth Suit
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